Hel is the full stop at the end of a 35-kilometre sandbar: a fishing town with beaches on both sides — calm bay water to the south, open Baltic surf to the north — a working seal sanctuary, and the pleasant strangeness of standing at the end of the line. In summer the water tram from Sopot and Gdynia turns the journey itself into the day's best hour.
Beds are mostly pensions and fishermen's-cottage guesthouses from €48. July weekends sell out entirely; June and September give you the same beaches nearly alone.
Wiejska street and the lanes off it put you between the port, the beach and dinner. The forest edge north of town has quieter pensions two minutes from the open-sea beach.
Port → open-sea beach east → the red-brick lighthouse in the pines → military ruins → back along the bay shore. Two coasts, one walk.
All 12 walks in Pomerania →Trains from Gdynia run the length of the peninsula (90 min) and beat the single road every summer weekend. Water trams from Sopot/Gdynia run May–September. A car is a liability here in July.
Hand-picked stays for this area are coming here — meanwhile, every property is one click away at live prices.